Dumeril’s boas are medium-sized snakes, quite stocky in build and calm in nature. Dumeril’s boas are clad in an assortment of colors — peaches, tans, browns, grays, reds, and greens. They come in the drier southwestern areas of Madagascar where rain is minimal (although maybe not desertlike).
Dumeril’s boas create good pet snakes, but I wouldn’t suggest them as a primary pet snake. Dumeril’s boas have composed dispositions and rarely try to bite. All snacks I’ve experienced from Dumeril’s boas are out of overzealous feeding. I’ve not been bitten by an aggressive/defensive method.
Where to buy Dumeril’s Boa?
Dumeril’s boas are easily obtainable. There are lots of morphs that’ll be available later on. It is possible to locate Dumeril’s boas available online and through breeder sites, reptile specialty stores, and reptile shows and expos.
Dumeril’s Boa Size and Life Span
Dumeril’s boas vary in size from 3 to 6 feet. Snakes around 9 feet are infrequent, but they’re out there. Neonate Dumeril’s boas vary in size from 12 to 18 inches. Dumeril’s boas are slow-growing snakes which require 3 to 5 years to grow fully. Dumeril’s boas are known to survive for over 20 decades. The earliest Dumeril’s boa within my group is 16 years old.
Housing and Substrate for Dumeril’s Boa
Neonate Dumeril’s boas could be held in 5 to 10-gallon glass reptile enclosures or inside a shoebox- or sweater box-style rack system. Juvenile Dumeril’s boas around approximately 3 ft in length could be held at a glass, plastic or wood enclosure measuring two feet by two feet deep by 14 inches tall.
Mature Dumeril’s boas must be held in enclosures measuring 4 feet by two feet deep by 14 inches tall. A substrate to your enclosure may include newspaper, brown butcher paper, paper towels, aspen shaving or cypress mulch.
Don’t use pine or cedar shavings! Cedar and pine can contain oils that can harm your snake’s fumes and skin which can result in neurological troubles. I use newspaper as a substrate. It’s simple to clean and quite easy to obtain.
Lighting and Temperature for Dumeril’s Boa
Dumeril’s boas do not need special lighting such as a lot of lizards, turtles, and tortoises do. It’s possible to use a light for viewing functions, but it’s not required.
Average temperatures will need to maintain the low 80s Fahrenheit. Cool-end temperatures must be between 75 and 80 degrees. Hot-end temperatures must be no greater than 85 degrees. Additionally, keep your humidity levels between 40 and 60% — amounts lower than 40 percent may result in shedding problems, and amounts greater than 60 percent may result in respiratory troubles.
I prefer using an undertank heating source for heating enclosures since this can help keep up your humidity. Simply set the water bowl in the middle of the enclosure, and it’ll get enough heat from the hot side of this enclosure to maintain the humidity directly where it must be.
Food and Water for Dumeril’s Boa
Dumeril’s boas are opportunistic feeders. From the wild, they’ll eat just about whatever they could — birds, mammals, and even lizards.
In captivity, Dumeril’s boas will flourish on commercially accessible rabbits, rodents or fowl. Most all Dumeril’s boas will consume frozen/thawed prey things. I nourish my snakes the main diet of frozen/thawed or reside rodents and rats. Sometimes I shall feed them fowl. Some Dumeril’s boas are extremely shy claws, and you might need to pay their enclosure or leave the room before the snake is finished eating.
Consistently offer your Dumeril’s boa a bowl of clean water (use filtered tap water or bottled spring water). Dumeril’s boas absorb considerable amounts of water at one time. The water will also be utilized for soaking (mainly resulting in shedding). I advise that you alter your snakes out water daily or every other day in the least.
Handling and Temperament for Dumeril’s Boa
Nature remarkably composes Dumeril’s boas. Some snakes are timid and prefer not to be treated. You will soon discover just how much managing your snake will tolerate. Dumeril’s boas that prefer not to be handled will be somewhat flighty and attempt to escape from you instead of being competitive.
I love to “hook train” all my snakes (not simply Dumeril’s boas). This procedure helps state your snake to understand when it’s time to be treated and when it’s time for food. “Link training” requires patience, but is quite rewarding in the long term.
“Link training” is a method that states the snake to comprehend whether it is dinner time or managing time. If I intend on tackling a snake, I’ll utilize my hook to nudge the snake’s side to receive its attention gently. I then can hook the snake and then pull me personally, I pull about one-third of this snake’s body out of the enclosure before putting my palms onto the snake. I use this technique instead of simply reaching in and grasping the snake to help prevent being bitten.