Ball Python Care Sheet


The ball python is very simply the hottest pet python on the planet. Ball pythons are usually somewhat timid, but they make for perfect captives, since they are of a small size, are usually favorable, are easy to care for, and also arrive in a remarkable collection of colors and designs.

Ball pythons are indigenous to western and central Africa and flourish in such hot, tropical locations. They’re called the royal python in many parts of the planet and are honored in some areas of Africa.

Ball pythons result in an excellent pet for the first timekeeper and seasoned herpetoculturists alike. Every calendar year, breeders produce amazing, innovative, never-before-seen design and color variations that always generate new lovers of this ball python.

Where To Buy Ball Python?

Ball pythons are simple to get. The best option will remain captive bred and born snakes as they’re generally parasite free and probably the healthiest. Any ball python ought to be well-started and ingesting before buy.

How Big Is Ball Python?

Ball python hatchlings are roughly 10 inches in length. Adult female ball pythons typical 3 to 5 ft long, and mature male ball pythons typical 2-3 ft in size. This is a species where adult females are usually much larger than the men. A 5-football python is deemed large, but lengths of 6 feet or longer are reported.

How Long Can Ball Pythons Live?

With appropriate care, ball pythons can live 30 decades or longer. The album age to get a ball python is over 40 years — so plan on a very long life for the new pet snake.

Housing For Ball Python

Ball python enclosures may be as straightforward or as elaborate as you need to care for. Bear in mind that the longer you enter the crate, the further you need to clean and disinfect on a regular basis. Nevertheless, there are unique enclosures which work nicely for ball pythons, for example, but not restricted to, vinyl sweater boxes (i.e., Rubbermaid).

Melamine racks and also some of those commercially available, plastic-type reptile cages. Glass aquariums and tanks are sufficient for ball pythons, but the display tops on these enclosures may make it somewhat tough to keep proper humidity levels.

Juvenile ball pythons appear to succeed in tiny enclosures which make them feel protected. A little snake in a huge cage may get stressed and overwhelmed. Mature ball pythons do not demand incredibly large or elaborate replicas. A 36-inch by 18-inch by 12-inch enclosure will probably more than home an adult ball python.

Eliminate feces and urates when you can. Do an entire tear-down every 30 days by eliminating all substrate and cage accessories and fully disinfecting using a 5% bleach solution. Scrub the enclosure completely with water, and let it dry thoroughly before replacing cage attachments along with your snake.

The one cage accessory that’s needed for a happy ball python is a great hide box… perhaps a few of those. Ball pythons are secretive snakes which appreciate and use hide stains. Give one on each end of your python’s enclosure so that it does not need to select between temperature and safety. Clay flowerpots, plastic flowerpot trays and commercially accessible conceal boxes all work nicely.

Lighting & Temperature For Ball Python

Bear in mind that enclosures need to allow for a suitable thermal gradient the ball python can use, using a hotspot on a single end of this enclosure and a trendy place on the opposite. The ambient temperature shouldn’t drop below 75 degrees.

It’s crucially important that you be aware of the temperatures where you’re maintaining your snake(s). Don’t guess! A fantastic way to track temperatures would be to use an electronic indoor/outdoor thermometer with a probe. Stick the thermometer into the inside of the cage onto the cool end and set the probe onto the hot end, and you’re going to have both sides covered at the same time.

There are lots of ways to begin heating a ball python enclosure. Underage heating mats and tapes, ceramic heat emitters, basking bulbs (both routine daytime and crimson night lights) are only a couple. With warmth emitters and basking bulbs, so it’s vital to keep your eye on the humidity inside the enclosure, particularly if combined with a display high, as both may dry the atmosphere fast. Don’t use hot stones with snakes because they may heat unevenly over too little of a face area and can lead to serious burns.

Supplemental lighting isn’t essential for ball pythons, but when used should operate on a 12/12 cycle, meaning 12 hours on and 12 hours away. Continuous bright, overhead light is more stressful to snakes, particularly a nocturnal species like the ball python. Maintaining proper humidity will permit your ball python to lose properly.

Substrate For Ball Python

Newspapers and paper towels would be the least expensive and simplest substrates for ball pythons concerning cleaning and disinfect — outside with the old, in with the new. Cypress mulch and orchid bark are fantastic substrates for controlling moisture, but keep in mind that too much humidity can be as harmful (or even more) as too small. Never use some substrate comprising cedar, since it contains oils which may be fatal to reptiles!

What Do Ball Python Eat?

Hold your ball python a suitably sized bark weekly. “Appropriately sized” signifies prey items which are not any larger in circumference than the chunk python during its biggest circumference. Ball pythons can consume rats in the time they’re young — beginning with rat pups or “crawlers” initially and moving upward in size as they rise.

Don’t manage your ball python to get at least a day after feeding, since this may result in regurgitation. Ball pythons may be fed frozen/thawed or even pre-killed rodents. Never make a live bark unattended with any snake, even seeing as they may harm the snake.

Ball pythons are well known for not eating at specific intervals during the year, especially in the winter season. Be prepared for the chance of your ball python heading off feed, and maintain an educated eye on the snake’s overall state and body weight. That is nothing to be worried about with healthful, well-established pythons, though it can be particularly frustrating to this snake keeper.

If your ball python is healthful, keep your husbandry regular as normal, but retain the total amount of handling to a minimum. Offer your ball python food every 10 to 14 days before it’s considering eating again since the snake will gradually restart feeding normally.

Hold adult ball pythons every 1 to 2 weeks and younger ball pythons per week as they want the energy to grow. Don’t be alarmed if a well-started chunk python goes off feed during the cooler, drier times of the year since it is normal in captivity. Snakes typically do not consume while they’re in the discard cycle.

Ball Python Water

Examine the water every day. The size of this water dish is your decision. When it’s big enough to get your ball python to creep into soak, sooner or later your spider is likely to make the most of the chance — ball pythons appear to enjoy a nice beverage from time to time.

Make sure that the water bowl isn’t too heavy for juvenile creatures — 1 inch or so will suffice. The water bowl ought to be cleaned and disinfected on a weekly basis. Using a spare water bowl for these events can be useful so that you might be utilized while another has been cleaned.

Handling and Temperament For Ball Python

Ball pythons are usually shy and will spend a lot of the time hiding. Your ball python may originally see you as a hazard, and it has to know who you are. The target is to build trust between you and your snake.

Always support your ball python’s body and steer clear of movements that are rapid. After a ball python realizes you won’t hurt it, they frequently appear to enjoy being treated. Some ball pythons might attempt to conceal when managed and sometimes you will find ones who may even sting as a result of excessive anxiety.

These ball pythons may call for a little more time to settle in and set trust. A ball python’s sting is a shallow wound. If a snake appears as it will strike, it’s best not to manage it. Relax after holding your creature — sit right down and give the animal an opportunity to settle.

Some snakes might not eat for many hours or more after being treated, so avoid managing if you intend to feed. Following a snake has consumed it could be a fantastic idea to restrict the handling since it could be uncomfortable for your creature. Avoid placing your snake’s cage in a heavy traffic area, excess motion, along with other pets must be avoided.

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